A Love-Letter to Deborah Levy, Cheryl Strayed, Kate Christensen, Pearl Cleage, Anaïs Nin and, of course, Marguerite Duras I am rereading...

When it rains, it pours. I found a home for the giraffe story! Yes, the one I named this blog after. It was born out of an assignment...

Sweden welcomes me with a trip to the emergency room. Not even hyperbole-ing. I’ve not been home twenty-four hours when I step off a...

I mean I was gonna post about post Camino blues and challenges etc etc but I’m sorry these spiritual Halloween costumes are too good....

On my last day in Spain, I’m awoken at 5am by a thunderstorm of biblical proportions. The rain outside my window isn’t even coming down....

I don’t expect much from Day 43. It’s the day after all of our Day in Santiago, Waffles is flying to Brussels, Fizzy Mucus and Lil’ Trump...

Drying your face with an actual terrycloth bath towel after six weeks of quick-dry microfiber malarkey – – – wow. I mean I like sex but....

Help me. I’ve got shin splints and a three-day hangover. I’m writing this in my bunk bed at Sixtos Hostel, from where we need to check...

Day 40! My Camino needs a Porsche and some cool jeans. A mistress. An Amazon Prime subscription to Rogaine. Instead, my Camino got drunk....

Day 39 is a piss-up. No two ways about it. I get to Arzúa and all my faves are there. Aya Babe with posse, Waffles, even Fake Vegan and...

Day 38 is another Female Energy Day. Waffles and Beard Braid walk ahead in the morning. My plan is to go sola but I start chatting to an...

Day 37 is about food, wine, music, wine, friends, lying in the grass, and wine, with some extra time for lying in hammocks. Singing...

Spoiler alert: my new self-image as Mother Theresa doesn’t last all that long. I wake up at seven thirty to find that almost everyone has...

That kind of day. Six hours. Relentless. Two pairs of socks. Two failed plastic bag experiments. No albergues. Just kilometre upon...

On Day 33, I walk into Galicia and make a beautiful connection with a girl I’ve clocked a few days previous, in Tineo, a loud and pretty...

Two things, amigos. One, we are now a WordPress! I guess it was totally time I left the lands of totally teenage aesthetics anyway. But...

Day 32 is beautiful, enchanted, hard. We decide to go via Hospitales, so all books and apps tell us to load up on supplies and stick...

I sleep like a baby in the €5 Tineo public albergue (or “muni” as it is called in Camino; short for “municipal”), which, after two days...

Day 30! My Camino is all grown up. So yesterday’s notations were: Space – the holding of it, the taking up of it Art is everything Wear...

“Art is everything. Wear leg jewellery!” That’s about it from today. #soulsearching #psychedelics #CaminodelNorte #travel #plantmedicines...

The next day I walk with Waffles for the first twelve kilometers to a cafe, where we have the standard tortilla and cafe con leche plus a...

Oh god what even happens on day 27? I start the real Camino Primitivo, and find it a lot more populated than the weird inbetweeny bit...

On Day 26, I dust myself off and get back on it. Skies are blue inside and out as I leave Pola de Siero, not axe-murdered and feeling...

After Villaviciosa, the Camino splits. I can choose to continue the Norte along the coast, or I can take the Camino Primitivo into the...

Oh, forgot to say. The day continued, even after my grand internal climate epiphany. It rained a lot. It was hot a lot. Then cold a lot....

Right. I guess tumblr thinks I’m a playground flasher who’s decided to lure children in by just describing my outfit? Gonna have to think...

Because really, this blog was never about the Camino. It’s about my emotions. Soz, folks. Better you know now I guess. But because I’m...

The night before, I ask the (dead-sweet) hospitalero what is included in the €2,50 breakfast at Albergue de Peregrinos La Isla. “Bread,...

The hospitalero at Casa Rectoral wakes us up at 7am with some classic monk choir hits that soon go over into 70’s disco bangers including...

Three weeks. This is the halfway mark. Time to panic. When not panicking, I eat the best hostel breakfast to date (€2,50 for toast with...

“If (the) love feels too tight, it isn’t your size.” Day 20 is a different kind of day. I wake up and all the people in my room at Casa...

On day 19, I haul ass. I feel behind from the lazy day before and want to catch up with Gertrude, so race past about twenty puzzled...

I wake up first. Just me, the beach and the sunset. Gradually, the boys start to stir. God I want to brush my teeth. Around us the debris...

We awaken to a less than ideal situation… all our clothes are still wet. Plus, we arrived so late after all the ice cream and beer and...

Outdoor premiere goes both very well and very bad. Well because it’s fun and exciting and the €6,99 thermal blanket that Decathlon man...

There are no blankets at the albergue, and even though I go to bed in all my warmest clothes – wool trousers, socks and a fleece jacket –...

Day 14’s walk is epic. It starts along the same paved country roads as the day before, but soon turns into dramatic coastline exposing...

Oh wow. Where to start. It’s 09:40 on Day 13, or is it 14, I don’t know anymore. But I thought it was 14, which is supposed to be a...

Alright! I’m doing it! Let’s go list cause who doesn’t like to know when they’re getting out. First Fortnight Top 10 1. The people. I...

Day 12 starts out HARD. I leave the hostel in the charming anchovy factory neighbourhood of Santoña with Gertrude, then head towards the...

After Ralph joins me on the cape we go to a surf shack overlooking the water. We drink beer and milkshakes and I eat a ribeye burger with...

The next day is a doozy. Ralph and I set off after a breakfast of creamy coffee and pre-sliced toast with the two jams. Today we talk...

Day 8 is a success. I give my feet a rest and stay in the hostel writing until late afternoon, when GIB joins me for a walk to the...

The next morning, I leave the hostel alone at 8:30. I need to be away from people. GIB left at 6:30 with a head lamp on. Lucia is still...

The big talkie in the morning is obviously how to bypass Gernika, aka the Camino Accommodation Black Hole. I’ve called up every hostel in...

The next morning I’m awakened by the usual rustling of bags and zipping of zippers. Outside, I can hear the coffee machine whirring,...

As I’m already in the habit of squandering friendships, it’s not hard for me to leave my two new roomies and head for Zumaia in the early...

Although I’d told myself the night before that my reasons for not getting the albergue breakfast, in addition to not wanting to spend €5,...

I wake up itching and with a headache. Sunstroke, sunburn, dehydration, new bites – hopefully mosquitoes, rather than bedbugs. It’s 07:37...

After a night in San Juan, I descend the steps to the port where the hospitalero has told us to catch the ferry. “How often do they go?”...