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Surrender to the present post.

Bonjour. I am Frida. This is where I write about anxiety, art, trying to make art, anxiety associated with trying to make art, and other highly marketable stuff like that.

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Two things, amigos.

One, we are now a WordPress! I guess it was totally time I left the lands of totally teenage aesthetics anyway. But I’d be lying if I said I wanted to go – I didn’t, but tumblr gave me no choice by keeping me banned for “mature content.” I mean, I wish. No mature content on this Camino, I can tell you that much. But hey. Maybe this is how growth happens.

Incredibly slowly, and only as a last resort.

Two, we are now “Coffee Like Giraffes.” Yes, this blog is about the Camino, and it’s about choosing to be an artist instead of dying of the past, and it is about learning to pack for the inner Asturias. All those previous incarnations of this blog are still alive and well within it, like the layers of sedimentary rock on the epic mountain I walked down today while having all these thoughts.

But they all had one big flaw in common.

They were all trying to make sense. Of things. Of writing. Of why I am here, right now, going on this walk, writing this blog.

It is possible that sense may one day come of all this. I mean it remains a hope. We are sense-making beings, supposedly: it’s why we see faces in trees, need Apple to create an algorithm for shuffle because true shuffle feels to us too planned, too structured, as if it does, contrary to our desire, follow some preexisting logic. Even chaos appears to us to have a pattern.

So I probably do want sense, deep down in my inescapably human bones. But I don’t want it now, and I certainly don’t want it prematurely.

Cheryl Strayed writes on the last page of Wild:

After he drove away, I leaned my head back and closed my eyes against the sun as the tears I’d expected earlier at the bridge began to seep from my eyes. Thank you, I thought over and over again. Thank you. Not just for the long walk, but for everything I could feel finally gathered up inside of me; for everything the trail had taught me and everything I couldn’t yet know, though I felt it somehow already contained within me. How I’d never see the man in the BMW again, but how in four years I’d cross the Bridge of the Gods with another man and marry him in a spot almost visible from where I now sat. How in nine years that man and I would have a son named Carver, and a year and a half after that, a daughter named Bobbi. How in fifteen years I’d bring my family to this same white bench and the four of us would eat ice-cream cones while I told them the story of the time I’d been here once before, when I’d finished walking a long way on something called the Pacific Crest Trail. And how it would be only then that the meaning of my hike would unfold inside of me, the secret I’d always told myself finally revealed.

I’ve been talking a lot about Lucy Rees lately, and this quote, these thoughts, again bring her to mind. Especially her way of looking at horses, and trying to teach the people on her courses to do the same. To just look. Not impose a preexisting idea of what one ought to be seeing. It’s very hard.

She will start most courses by sitting her students down in the middle of the vast natural reserve where her wild Pottoka ponies roam, and ask them to just write down what they see.

They won’t. They can’t. They’ll try, but very soon they’ll be made aware by Lucy that what they’ve written isn’t an observation. It’s an interpretation. “The foal tries to drink milk from the mother.” “The yearling fights with the stallion.”

No, she’ll have to say, again and again. That’s not what you see. What you see is: “The foal puts his head underneath the stomach of a bigger female horse.” “The yearling kicks the stallion.” But are his ears pinned back, or not? Is he angry? Or is he playing?

Just looking is hard. But necessary, if we are to stop perpetuating the view we’ve always had. We suffer the consequences of confirmation bias every day. And this is a problem, if there are some ideas we have – say, about ourselves; say, “people don’t want to be with me,” or “I am too much” – that we’d rather let go of.

So. Coffee Like Giraffes. It’s obvious, no? No?

Okay. It’s the title of a story I wrote once, when I was twenty-six years old and an MFA Creative Writing student at San Francisco State University. It was a difficult time in many ways, but the university was incredible, and my creativity was flourishing. A teacher asked us to write a story in the form of a list, and without mentioning what the story was about. I wrote about coffee, and in one of the paragraphs I said it looked like giraffes, because I think it does, the oily layer on top of a black coffee from a French press that has perhaps not been cleaned entirely as it should have been. The way that layer will break up if you leave the coffee a few minutes, start separating into little clean-cut islands of oil that look like the spots on a giraffe.

Nobody in my class knew what I meant by this. Which is why it works. It’s a beautiful string of words that’s all mine, that is what I saw, and that doesn’t even have flasher connotations! What’s not to like?

These are all thoughts I had as I walked down a beautiful mountainside yesterday. I ought to write so much about the walk but really, these photos do it better. It was transcendental. Especially when I got to the dam. I felt so small. I felt so free.

Walking through the forest leading to the dam, I felt like I had just woken up. Like I had been blinded by this desire – this compulsion – to impose upon a world a form of sense that it did not want. And that, having let go of that, I could finally be present. I felt fully there, fully attuned to every mossy rock, decaying leaf, plump chestnut, rotting tree. It was like making love to the mountain. Like I was always meant to be right there, right then.

And it made me think. I talked earlier about how Waffles made me feel like I hadn’t been wrong by being all those poetic, dramatic, irrational things. That maybe I’d just not had the luck. But on Day 33 a different option materializes to my mind: maybe it all happened just the way it was meant to happen. Just the way the universe wanted it. Just right.

Doubts, dejection, depressions all included.

And so here we are. Walking out of our chains and seeing giraffes in our coffee. I love ridiculous metaphors like these. She’s got a mind like an ingrown toenail. Hills like blue elephants. See. Even the ultra-masculine master of “lean, muscular prose” knew their magic.

Coffee Like Giraffes is my call to arms to write what I see. Not what I want to see, or what I think I should see. But what I actually see. As senseless as it may seem at the time. It’s a pledge to have faith, that if I just pay attention, sense will go and make itself.

As for the rest of the day, I basically walked with God. But I’ll leave y’all to just look.

Where we were

Day 32 is beautiful, enchanted, hard. We decide to go via Hospitales, so all books and apps tell us to load up on supplies and stick together. Hence, somewhat idealistically, me and Waffles leave Borres together and start making our way up the mountain. The fog is total and complete. White, everywhere.

It gets hard fast. But also magical. Within an hour, my penchant for stopping every few steps to photograph spiderwebs proves difficult to combine with Waffles’ penchant for charging up hills like the young bull he is. So we separate, and I slow down significantly, spending the next several hours walking so quietly my feet barely seem to touch the ground.

I walk through misty pine forests, lush green plains of black trees twisted by winds and years. I can’t see more than ten metres ahead or back, meaning that even if I’m not actually alone I feel it.

The hills are relentless. I’m wearing my mother’s long-sleeved top of wool and silk beneath my brother-in-law’s snowboarding fleece, and despite the cold I’m boiling. Dripping with sweat.

Around eleven I sit down beneath a tree to eat some chocolate, and within seconds, I’m freezing. I consider changing my top, but can’t even imagine taking off a layer in the wet, cold air. So I keep on my sweat-soaked clothes as I get back up, and after not even a minute of walking I’m warmed up again.

After a while, the sun starts breaking through the mist, and magically, a world around me is revealed. Endless fields on both sides filled with purple heather, yellow broom, bright lilac mountain flowers I don’t know the name of. Slowly, some mountaintops become discernible above the mist. And cows. So many cows. Were they here the whole time?

I am careful not to drink too much water, but the closer I get to 18k, the more I indulge. I also don’t eat, thinking I’ll wait until I’m by the water fountain so I can drink up and then refill before moving on.

When I finally walk into the tiny mountain village of Montefurado, consisting of five ancient stone buildings that used to be the pilgrim’s hospital, I’m both starving and parched. With the climb and the mist and the cows and the thoughts I feel like I’ve been through another world, and the sight of the water fountain is an almost surreal relief.

I walk over and unscrew the cork from my bottle, when a roar is heard from within the nearest house.

“Camino allá!” comes out of the roar.

I turn around to see a rabid, grey-haired man slam open his doors. The expression on his face reminds me of how Joyce Maynard described the look on JD Salinger’s face when she first contradicted him: “like someone who’d bitten into an apple and found it full of maggots.”

“No aquí. Allá!” He points with his whole arm to the path a few meters away.

The Camino. There. Not here.

“This is private property!” he barks. He really looks very angry.

“And the water?” I ask.

“For us!” he shouts. “Not you!”

“Could I please just refill my water bottle?”

“No! Leave now!”

Well, nothing doing there. He slams the doors shut again and disappears back into his house. I look at the tap. At my almost-empty water bottle. In the end, I’m too terrified of what Mountain Troll Man might do to me if I steal his water, so I walk on without it, stopping only once I’m a safe distance away for a dry lunch on a green hillside.

The sun has come out fully now, and I lie down in the grass for a while after eating, watching as everyone I passed the previous half hour passes me again. Then I get back up and overtake them all again (hola, Buen Camino) until I reach a church with – praise the lords – a public water fountain outside it.

Everyone’s here. It’s like the watering hole of the savannah in Lion King.

And everyone’s freaking out about accommodation. Just like I promised I wouldn’t. Berducedo is fully booked! La Mesa is fully booked! People have been phoning three places, four places. Nothing! It’s all fully booked!

When the bookers hear I don’t have a reservation, they all get on their apps, pull out their guidebooks. They’ll find me something. But I tell them not to worry, that I’m aiming for the muni in Berducedes that doesn’t take bookings, that I’m sure I’ll be fine.

I am not sure I’ll be fine, so once I manage to convince everyone else that I will be, I go into top gear. For the third time that day, I pass about twenty pilgrims until I finally arrive, aching and steaming, at the Berducedo muni around three in the afternoon.

Waffles is coolly waiting in the common room. There’s tons of beds. The place is beautiful. The place is €6 a night. Really, I need to chill out.

I make my bed, nap, try to get my blog unlocked. Then we buy some food and cook an ambitious blue cheese pasta with the finest canned goods that Spanish convenience stores can offer (peas, peppers, mushrooms). We share our food with a kindly Greek man who’s hiking in jeans and a Lithuanian farmer with a braid in his beard who tells us about meeting a magic weed-smoking Spaniard in the woods at five thirty that morning. The farmer ends up giving us some weed and Waffles ends up giving the Greek his spare hiking trousers. Oh, how I love the Camino economy. Waffles, Beard Braid and I get significantly high in the garden, and I fall asleep after watching the first nine minutes of the movie adaptation of “Wild.” What a perfect day.

  • Oct 8, 2022
  • 3 min read

I sleep like a baby in the €5 Tineo public albergue (or “muni” as it is called in Camino; short for “municipal”), which, after two days in the (totally worth it) €16 Hostel Rural La Figal de Xugabolos feels like some well-needed frugality. Plus, how can you argue with a breakfast like this?

Who needs freshly squeezed orange juice and cats, right.

The big talkie this morning is whether or not to walk via Hospitales the next day, a high mountain route that’s commonly referred to as “the epitome of the Primitivo” but which (not coincidentally) includes an ascent from 600m to 1200m on about 10k. I am so proud of myself that these things mean something to me now. Anyway the route is not recommended in bad weather, and heavy rains are forecast. What to do? As usual, I feel these decisions are best left for the Camino to make and so eventually I leave the Portuguese-German-Greek-Czech discussion at the breakfast table to just start walking.

Today’s route heads up into the mountains, too, though plateauing at the more humble 600-metre mark. Initial views are semi-promising.

However, there are horses. Furry, bootylicious ones. The kind I learnt during my time with Lucy are almost exclusively used for meat. Oh well.

Waffles and I are worried about getting a space at the muni in Borres, as Samblismo is already fully booked and after that there’s not a hostel to be found for another 25 incredibly steep, probably foggy and completely unserviced kilometres. According to Fake Vegan, who’s two days ahead of us now thanks to him going primitive and us going tripping, there’s water at 18k. But that’s it.

So after reuniting at a cafe in Campiello we push ahead for the last five kilometres at Waffles-pace, which is a lot even for my 34” legs. We get to the muni and we are arrivals two and three for a 16-bed dorm. I need to stop worrying about these things.

Registration for the muni is in a bar, so we decide to award ourselves with a beer before walking over to the actual place now that we know we’re home safe. Beer is good so we order another. Then hot chocolate. With a bit of rum in it. About two hours later, we walk to the albergue, “just over there,” which turns out to be a whole seven minutes’ walk away. How can they do this to us. Miraculously, we make it there, and I barely manage to have a shower before crashing into one of the baby-blue plastic-sheeted beds, where I read “Wild” for about thirty seconds before I fall asleep.

I’ve been asleep for about eight glorious minutes when The World’s Loudest Man enters and starts talking about his Barcelona banking business. What a cunt. I wake up with my blood boiling and demonstrably read Wild while ignoring his conversation with the other two Spaniards. After about five minutes, he asks if I’m okay. Resting bitch face successful. He’s tall and muscular and keeps making jokes about his friend wanting to sleep with the dog brought by a British-Indonesian couple. It’s been years since I’ve been so annoyed. I take a deep breath and tell myself it’s a spiritual challenge. He’s a spiritual teacher. Just a spiritual teacher I decide to staunchly ignore for the remainder of the evening.

We do however pick up some pertinent information from Obnoxious Meathead’s need to chat with everyone in the albergue: by trusting that “the Camino will decide,” we’ve missed the last supermarket until Berducedo (those infamous 25 bad kilometres further ahead). It’s gonna be the hardest day so far and there is nothing but water at 18k. Also, the bar we had banked on visiting in the morning for some hot tortilla and mountain weather intel has informed us it won’t open until 10:30, so we’re in a bit of a pickle. We can take the high mountain route, but there won’t be any supplies. Or we can go the long way around, with supplies and an albergue halfway. But then we’d miss the epitome of the Primitivo.

So what happens? Young Gun Waffles volunteers to walk back 2,7 kilometres to Campiello and get us supplies for the next day + dinner. What a hero. We then sneakily cook our pasta and tomato sauce in the private albergue next door, where one half of the dog-owning couple have booked in, since they have a kitchen. This goes well if you discount a small altercation with the landlady plus a minor blow-up between two male diners about washing up. Awks.

Heading back to our (again, €5!) dorm Waffles says it feels like walking back to your dorm after a university party at another dorm. And to think I came here for penance.

© FRIDA STAVENOW 2024

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